Day 4: Rifugio Elena to La Fouley

Up to Grand Col Ferret, into Switzerland and down to La Fouley. About 13 kms and only about 500m ascent.

Before leaving Elena (2062m) we took a photo of the Glacier Pré de Bar, then we set off a 8.30 towards Grand Col Ferret which is on the Italy/Switzerland border. The path wound up in zigzags above the refuge - as we looked back, we saw views of the Glacier Pré de Bar, of Val Ferret and of the refuge. We took a brief rest after half an hour and took account of all the big mountains around us such as: Grandes Jurasses and Glacier Triolet to the left of Glacier Pré de Bar and Mont Dolent looming to the left of the col - which we would be looking at for the rest of the day and the next day.

Then we pressed on, finally reaching Grand Col Ferret (2537 m) at 10 o'clock. The group posed for a photo in front of Mount Dolent. Unlike the previous Col, this one was more interesting for the view behind us, which is shown in our panorama. In front of us we saw the view down to La Fouley, with some big mountains including Grand Combin in the far distance.

Our panorama shows from left to right: the way to Col de la Seigne, Jurasses, Glacier Triolet, Triolet, Pré de Bar and Dolent.

Quite soon the grassy slopes gave way to a big display of alpine flowers. In partcular, there were numerous baby rhododendrons (or Rose of the Alps) with their pinky mauve flowers covering the hillside. The rocks were covered with numerous tiny flowers. And we saw several Lys Martagons again.

At about 1 o'clock after a long walk down hill, we reached La Peule (2071 m). This is a dairy farm with tables outside for visitors. They sell drinks as well as the cheese and sérac that they make.





The place is very hospitable, with a good washroom and toilet and behind that a dormitory with straw mattresses where guests are invited to take a nap in the straw. The farm operates only in the summer time, making dairy products from the milk produced by its herd of cows.

They have a sign describing how one December in WW2, when the swiss army were guarding the way down from the col, they saw a stranger walking and challenged hum three times:"stop or we fire". Each time he disappeared and then went on. Eventually they discovered that he was an Italian poet who had escaped from Italy after having published an anti-fascist pamphlet.

People took advantage of the facilities in various ways. Eventually eveyone walked down the hill. At one point we saw a family of marmots playing and fighting by a pine tree on the other side of a little filed below us - we used the binoculars to inspect their behaviour. they seemed to be having fun. The flowers on the rocks continued to surprise us with their intense colours - these included Joubarbe : a great favourite.

Where the path joined the road to the village of Ferret, we saw a sign advertising La Peule. The French version refers to the dormitories as : "Aventure sur Paille" and the German as : "Schlaf im Stroh".

A fast stream (the Drance) ran under the bridge by the road and when Diego approached with Libélule, she decided a paddle was a good idea and so did some of the walkers. Icy water is excellent for soothing hot toes.

We walked along the little road as far as the tiny village of Ferret - seen on the right with the Glacier la Neuve above it. We then followed the footpath into the larch woods above the road - very peaceful and light woods - trees not too dense, so plenty of flowers and many little streams.

Eventually we came out of the woods onto the road through La Fouly by about 4.30 pm, still at 1610 m: it's a big village with shops and hotels. We stayed for the night at Hotel Edelweiss in a small en-suite room in the roof. The hotel is designed chalet-style as are all the houses in la Fouly. The meal was rather boring and the waitresses slow and uncommunicative. We had soup with barley (OK), chicken and rice (poor), followed by creme caramel. One of our group had a birthday, so she produced a locally-bought cake and 29 candles so that we could celebrate with her - singing various birthday songs in ways strange and less strange.

After the meal a walk round the village and through pretty woods, with frequent glimpses of the glacier on Mont Dolent.


Diary of third day