Our first impressions of Urbino were of very steep narrow and windy streets, paved in brick. After pushing the bikes up some of these, we suddenly arrived in the large main square in front of the Ducal Palace and cathedral. We struggled with our bikes and bags down a narrow steep alley to the Hotel Italia in Corso Garibaldi where we got a very fine room.
After lunch we visited the Ducal Palace which was build by Ferdinando Montefeltro in 1482. It is an immense and beautiful renaissance palace - FM knew how to collect architects (e.g. Bramante) to build his palace and other builidngs in Urbino as well as artists (e.g. Piero della Francesca, Uccello and Giovanni Santi). The palace is entered via a very large staircase with wide shallow steps. It contains a large collection of paintings which includes the Flagellation by Piero della Francesca:
as well as his Madonna di Senigollia. Also Ucello's Profanation of the Host and several paintings by Raphael.
Each room in the palace has a paved floor and an arched ceiling with a central medallion of an eagle. There are smaller half arches round the walls. The most interesting room in the palace is the Studiolo - a small room with wood panelling with inlaid wood decorations that include trompe l'oeil pictures of books, armour in cupboards and so forth.
High up the walls of the Studiolo are two friezes of portraits of philosophers from ancient and contemporary times, painted by a northern artist, Justus of Ghent.
It was a very cold evening. But we had a good meal at Angolo del Vino - black truffles feature a lot in the local cuisine.
The next morning we walked round the outside of the Ducal Palace. There are good views of the of the palace from outside our hotel in Corso Garibaldi.
 |
 |
We then visited the house of Raphael - actually his father, Giovanni Santo's house - the artists lived very comfortably in those days. We visited the Oratorio of S, Giovanni which has good frescoes by Giacomo and Lorenzo Salimbere (1416).
Urbino is on the side of a very steep hill. Its main street are cobbled and steep - locals can bring their cars in. There are small alleys between the 4 storey houses - these are so steep that it is like walking down a roof - generally a brick plane with little ridges or sometimes steps.
 |
 |
Poor meal at Il Coppiere. George had Stinko di Maiale which was very dry. Jean had a local pasta called Strozzapreti (meaning choke the priests) and although not choked, had a bad pain all night and the next day.
| Back to index page |  |
 |
See more photos of Urbino |