Wednesday 24th September 2008 Concarneau

Mme Chabert reported the weather forecast as mitigé (a new word for us meaning mixed or lukewarm according to our dictionary). Having heard it once, we kept on hearing it. Although her paper promised ‘no rain’, we set off in slight rain to retrace our route from two days earlier, back as far as Plouhinec. On the way we saw a few more slightly larger menhirs.

The cost between Carnac and Concarneau is intersected by several large estuaries such as the Riviere d’Etel, which we again crossed on the high suspension bridge on the way to port Louis.

Port Louis

Port Louis is a pleasant little mediaeval walled town, named after Louis 13th. As soon as we found the quay, a ferry arrived to take us across the wide Blavet estuary to Lorient’s fishing port. Once on the little boat, we put on our waterproofs, as our other togs were a bit damp.

We rode from the port through unprepossessing suburbs and on to Plomeur where we stopped to buy fruit, cheese and saucisson. We had packed the very generous supply of extra rolls at breakfast time and Mme Chabert had said “vous avez bien fait”.

We reached the coast at Fort Bloqué – named after a little island nearby with a fortress on it. As the rain had stopped we sat on our waterproof sheet for the first time and had a picnic with a view of the bay in the improving light. The road along the cost to Guidel Plage is (according to the Michelin Map) supposed to be picturesque, but it was not very exciting on this still grey day.

The Laïta estuary near Guidel Plage

Unfortunately we couldn’t find a boat to take us across the Laïta estuary near Guidel Plage (they do run in July and August). So we had to ride inland and over a bridge to Clohars Carnoet, feeling rather jaded and quite saddle sore. But the sight of the wide and very blue River Belon cheered us.

Pont Aven

We stopped for a coffee near the bridge in Pont-Aven. This town makes a big thing out of the fast that Paul Gauguin lived here before he departed for Tahiti. However we understand that its museums don’t contain any of his works. In spite of all the extraneous galleries and biscuit shops, the town has a very pleasant atmosphere. We confess to having enjoyed some Breton cakes (fried in butter with a variety of fillings such as apple and lemon)

Concarneau Ville Close

The last 15 km stretch of was a bit faster. although the last 3 km of it was very busy and unpleasant. Then we went over the bridge into the town of Concarneau, via the fishing port to the Halles area opposite the Ville Close. BWe booked into Hotel Les Grands Voyageurs, 9, Place Jean Jaures (our room has a view of the Ville Close).

The Ville Close is a mediaeval walled town on an island in the port of Concarneau. It is accessed over two little bridges and then through a gate. The ramparts provide views of the port and old town and are well decked with machicolations for pouring boiling oil and other noxious substances on the enemy. A narrow street passes between the old houses right across the old town; occasional little alleyways lead to views out over the port. Many of the houses have been taken over by tourist shops selling striped breton tops, gallettes and breton cakes, but fortunately many of these were closed. We sat in a bar opposite the (former) church and then had a very good fish meal at Bar Vauban near to the gates.