Cycling from Hyères Port
Just to the west of Hyères Port, a peninsula stretches south into the sea. This peninsula consists of a leg and a wider foot where you catch the boat to Porquerolles from La Tour Fondue. The leg of the peninsula consists mainly of a big salt lake, Salin des Pesquiers, with a narrow sand dune on the west side and a wider inhabited area with beaches on the east side. The Salin is populated by many birds including flamingos and white herons.
On the east side there is a quiet road between the dune and the Salin, which is closed to through traffic October - April. This makes a very pleasant cycle route to the foot of the peninsula. Also the beach on this side was sheltered and a good place for a November swim. It was reasonably quiet - maybe it would be different in the summer.
Cycling east to the village of les Salines is made very pleasant by a cycle track that goes most of the way. Les Salines has a long stretch of sandy beach next to another big salt lake with flamingos. The road ends at the village, with just a sandy track between the dunes and the lake.
 Sunset from west side of Hyeres peninsula |
 Beach on west side of Hyeres peninsula |
 les Salines |
Visit to Porquerolles
The island of Porquerolles is about 20 minutes by boat from La Tour Fondue. Its a fast boat that takes only bikes and foot passengers (the boat driver went very fast, making waves). We took the tandem over and used it to ride around the tracks on the island. As we arrived at the little port, the very strong wind became apparent and we wondered whether cycling would be possible, but we were fortunate to find shelter on most of the tracks.
There are a few cars belonginging to the inhabitants, but the tracks are almost free of vehicles. The island is 7 km long and 3 km wide, so having the bike enabled us to explore more of it than would have been possible on foot. The tracks vary: some concrete, some tarmac and some very rough.
Around the coast, the island is heavily wooded with pines and eucalyptus.The centre is cultivated with olive trees and extensive vineyards. We rode over to the lighthouse where we had a picnic on the top of a cliff with a view to the open sea. We cycled round to the Plage d'Argent where we had a quick swim and then on past the village to the beaches on the other side.
Before catching the boat back, we wandered round the village, identifying the Hotel de la Poste which we think was the setting for Simenon's Mon Ami Maigret.
 La Tour Fondue harbour towards Porquerolles |
 Porquerolles: Plage d'Argent (where we swam) |
 Porquerolles: Plage d'Argent |
 Porquerolles lighthouse |
 leaving Porquerolles |
Hyères les Palmiers
A small town on a very steep hill. The buildings in the old part of the town are on winding steep lanes which sometimes become steps. The sites include a 13th century gateway (Porte Masillon), a romanesque tower (Tour des Templiers) and a big church (Collegiale St Paul) which was closed.
The highlight was La Castel Ste Claire, which was rebuilt by Olivier Vouton who discovered the Venus de Milo and fought for the Greek Resistance. He is buried near the top of the big garden, near the look out. Edith Wharton lived there from 1927 and developed that garden, which is still magnificent: a collection of colourful plants, many imported palms, cedars and deodora as well as a pineapple-like cactus with flowers.
 Panorama of the old town of Hyères seen from a terrace on its steep hillside. |
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 la Castel Ste Claire (Edith Wharton's villa 1927-52) |
 Edith Wharton's garden |
 Edith Wharton's garden |
 Edith Wharton's garden |
 Edith Wharton's garden |
 Edith Wharton's garden |
 Edith Wharton's garden |
Island of Port-Cros
Port-Cros is an hour away by boat from Hyères Port. This island really is perfect: the only way to get around is to walk. The little tracks wind between the trees, the ones we took went around the coast. We saw some attractive bays, including Salud and Port Man. As we walked we caught glimpses of bays and saw many trees: including bays, holm oaks and pines near to the shore. The shrubs included euphorbia and a bush with round fuzzy red or yellow berries (1-2 cm in diameter) – a passer-by advised us to try eating one and said they are called Arbousier and are used to make jam in Corsica. There were many orchid plants with arrow-like leaves and plentiful brown and white flowers.
This island has many forts: one by the port, another called Estissac and a third enormous one called Eminence, which was used during WW2. Much of the island appears to be covered by natural forest. The island itself and surrounding area of sea are protected. Neither dogs nor smoking are permitted.
 Leaving Hyères Port for Port-Cros |
 Port-Cros harbour |
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 footpath on Port-Cros |
 footpath on Port-Cros |
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 Rocher du Rascas |
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 euphorbia |
 rosemary-like plant without the aroma |
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 close up of orchids |
 Fort Estissac |
 Fort Estissac |
 patch of orchids |
 Fort Eminence an old fort used until WW2 |
 Arbousier - an edible berry used to make jam in Corsica |
 Port Man bay on Port-Cros |
Toulon
We took the train to Toulon, a big naval town. There is an extensive, properly pedestrianised old town near to the port. Above that are some busy palm-lined streets, then the station and above that a big rocky hill. The pedestrian area is extensive with a daily market, many fountains and squares and a memorial to Jules Raimu. We noted that Pierre Puget, the 17th century architect, painter and sculpter is important in the town, having designed galleys in the museum and a fountain. A square is named after him and there are plaques celebrating him.
Below the pedestrian area is the yacht harbour with walkways and a line of places to eat. At the eastern end is the maritime museum and beyond that the large naval port which seemed to be inaccessible.
